In fact, Spearfish Canyon has been featured in national climbing magazines as a great up-and-coming sport crag for its well-pocketed routes and overhangs. Spearfish Canyon Scenic Byway The canyon itself is easily accessible — Highway 14A winds right through the canyon, passing a mountain stream (Spearfish Creek) and limestone canyon walls, sometimes 1000 feet high. Here you can grab some quality homegrown produce or shoot the breeze with a local artist. The canyon is a regional favorite for hiking, climbing, biking and sightseeing. The 76 Trail offers breathtaking panoramic views of Spearfish Canyon. The Sunshine Wall parking area is the large pullout on the left about two miles up the road. WI2+ 8 Downtown Friday Nights runs from June through the first week of September and hosts live music, plenty of vendors, and a closed-off main street for a traditional small-town block party. Enjoy the scenic drive through the canyon or skip into the rad little town for live music and a hefty brew. On the north side of Spearfish is a KOA campground, offering plenty of accommodations and a pool, but rates may fluctuate. Spearfish Canyon has been recognized by national rock climbing magazines for its great climbing and scenery. Photo: Tyler Kaschke. Gradually climbing from the town of Spearfish on the northern edge of the Black Hills, this canyon is one of the gateways into the heart of an ancient mountain range. You will not be disappointed.”, Ya Bud! Easier on the tendons than Big Train but slightly more technical. Photo: Tyler Kaschke, Bugs Bunny (5.8)The Bunny SlopeSunshine“Fun! Do this route! Spearfish Canyon is renowned for the fall colors each year. It is best to call ahead if youre headed into the higher elevations during the F… If you like to get to the bottom of things at the locals’ burger and beer spot, Killian’s Tavern (605-717-1255) is the place to be. Spearfish Canyon is a deep but narrow gorge carved by Spearfish Creek located in Lawrence County, South Dakota, U.S., just south of Spearfish.The canyon is located within the Black Hills, located on the northern edge of the Black Hills National Forest.The Spearfish Canyon Scenic Byway travels through the Canyon from Spearfish to Cheyenne Crossing along U.S. Route 14A. *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. If hiking isn’t your cup of tea, the canyon also has rock climbing, picnicking, fishing, swimming, bird watching, and dining. Mountain Project's determination of the most popular, highly-rated routes. Just across the border in Wyoming, climbers can also enjoy a climb up Devils Tower, our nation’s first national monument. Both experienced and novice rock climbers can enjoy nearly year-round climbing on vertical routes like Oliver Twist, The Wall of Oz and Sunshine Wall. From spring until fall, Saturday mornings include the popular farmer’s market at the city park. On the north end of Black Hills National Forest in South Dakota is a wilderness of limestone—lots of limestone. Get on this awesome route!”, Pakistani Route (5.9+)Big Black FaceSunshine“Beautiful pocketed stone. Technical edges with a little power tossed in for good measure. All the holds are just good enough. Spearfish Canyon is a beautiful drive any time of year, but Fall offers the most colorful drive through the Canyon, as Mother Nature paints the leaves in shades of yellow, gold and red to accent the evergreen backdrop. Spearfish Canyon is the Northern Hills' number one natural attraction. My partner and I both agree it is definitely in the top three sport climbs either of us have ever done. Download the instant digital version or get a shiny one in the mail. Anderson said he was excited to try out the new facility at Black Hills Base Camp. Each month, we deliver the best that Spearfish has to offer directly to your inbox. Take a day to tan your front side and slip and slide your way around the heady water slides, just watch for kids and yellow patches in the pools. Stop in, grab a guidebook, and get some beta from the locals who have plenty more to offer than just directions to the best crags. The high limestone cliffs, along with various waterfalls, add much to the photo opportunities here. Spearfish Canyon is a true natural wonder, one that Frank Lloyd Wright found “even more miraculous” than the Grand Canyon! Rapping in with power drills, the crew humorously called Spearfish Canyon the “Freedom Zone.” Luke Kretschmar grapples with the pocket-pulling masterpiece of Battle Cry (5.12c), Indian Wars Wall, Mohican. Pump factor increases the difficulty of the ending mantel move.”, Marsha Gets Creamed (5.10a)Bradyism WallBig Picture Gully“Big reaches and pumpy as hell! On the cheaper and faster side is Barbacoa’s Burritos and Wraps (605-722-1774), a one-stop burrito retreat that will satisfy the dirtbag on a budget with huge burritos and a surplus of salsas that will keep you busy for several visits. And on the off chance town life is not for you, check out Pactola Lake for a variety of recreational opportunities, including mountain biking, trail running, scuba diving, kayaking, jet skiing, and cliff jumping. The changing of the leaves normally peaks during the first week of October. Austin and I had a pretty good idea on where to find it. It’s a very popular attraction in the Northern Hills, especially for visitors driving the Scenic Byway (US Hwy. Do it over and over again!”, The Euphamiah Beresford Memorial (5.11a)The Butt Rocks WallSunshine“Solid, sustained movement on well-mapped-out holds will ensure a rowdy, good ol’ pumpy climb that might just have you saying, ‘Dagnabbit! From Spearfish, drive through Spearfish Canyon and turn right at Cheyenne Crossing (toward Newcastle). Each adventurous pursuits in their own right, but what if all three could be enjoyed together? Positively the sickest line I have ever done. Well, Guadalajara’s Mexican Restaurant & Bar (605-642-4765) has everything from humongous nacho plates and scalding fresh fajitas to one-and-done margaritas. My farm kid/well digger's ass is old enough to deserve it. World map of rock climbing areas; The 20 closest climbing areas around a location; Rock climbing areas along your itinerary; Add a rock climbing area ... Rock Climbing Guide Spearfish Canyon Limestone ETA: My double-car garage with 24,000 BTU cooling and 16,000 BTU heat stays 72F year round. The ice is very reliable, not very crowded, and is usually accessed by short approaches. Get route beta, photos, and topos at mountainproject.com. A more bare-bones alternative is the Rod and Gun Campground located about 17 miles up the canyon. Get your morning started here or check out the popular and intimate open mic on Tuesdays. The hike to the Devils Bathtub was a lot of fun if you like crossing a creek a dozen times to the pool where you can swim. Climbing Partners. Spearfish Canyon, The VC & other Black Hills Limestone The Black Hills in Western South Dakota is one of North America’s premier limestone sport climbing areas. It was a cloudy morning, with a misty feel to it. Brute strength! If you are traveling fancy and have an RV, sites range from $25 to $39 for basic to full hook-up sites. Fun! Flanagan’s Irish Pub (605-722-3526) is a go-to for the thirsty climber seeking asylum in the arms of an Irish Car Bomb. The Back Porch and B&B Bar (605-642-2134) puts rowdy in a glass and serves it hot with live bands, a seemingly clothing-optional atmosphere, and a grimy 1980s feel; if you have an Appetite for Destruction concert T-shirt, pack it. He has climbed indoors and even in Spearfish Canyon. The breathtaking limestone palisades of this creek-carved gorge are more ancient than the Grand Canyon – albeit much closer together. Rim Rock Lodge is located in the heart of the Northern Black Hills, SD and is the perfect spot for the active vacationer - hiking, climbing, biking, fishing, site-seeing and, at the end of the day, relaxing in the serenity of Spearfish Canyon. Exposure! Spearfish Canyon is definitely the place to go to avoid the crowds – we were there on a Saturday and a Sunday in the best areas the canyon had to offer, and ran into only one other party the entire time. If you can hold on, you can get ’er dun and take it all the way to the top.”, Peace Pipe (5.10c)Trail of Tears WallThe Mohican“This route is a long, slightly overhanging line with killer moves. And if you’re looking to kick it up a notch there just so happens to be the biker bar of all biker bars. While the climb can be a challenge, the views at the end are well worth the effort. With close to 600 routes and roughly 19 crags (a higher concentration than anywhere else in the region), you’ll be hard-pressed to leave the quality climbing here. For the college-style drinker, refuge can be found at the False Bottom (605-642-1552), with the occasional musical performance, plenty of table games, and Long Island Iced Teas. Without having to deal with the elements? 14A). Scaling the cliffs of Spearfish Canyon. Here you’ll find a plethora of aggressive sport routes tailored to those looking to bump up their game among the serene backdrop of lush forests, waterfalls, and creeks. Geared toward human-powered, low-impact adventure travel, this shop is about the only thing saving you from a bummer trip if you happen to have left your shoes, belay device, harness, or any other fundamental piece of gear at home. Find a Free Campsite. But save yourself for the rock because there are more classics than you can possibly climb in one trip to what will likely become your new favorite climbing destination. Home ; Find climbing areas. The top-notch limestone routes in Spearfish Canyon show classic pocket climbing at its best. It’s only a matter of time. The rock at Spearfish is limestone – mostly tan, with large chunks of black streaks. The area’s icy waterfalls and frozen canyon walls also attract ice climbers in the heart of winter. If you only have one morning to spare on your road trip to our fine canyon, start your session with Tasting Time, then do Indecent Exposure, get on Slabbath, and cool down with either The Beast or The Conch. It packs a wallop with a battle-of-the-bulge crux and only has one good rest before the final push into enemy territory that leads to the anchors. Crow Peak Brewing Company (605-717-0006), a monolith of craft beer taps and fair-priced pizza, overlooks the elegant Black Hills. Monthly climbing area averages are for the weather station SPEARFISH, which is 4 miles away and 192 feet below the location used for the Spearfish Canyon climbing area forecasts. It’s about 19 miles from Spearfish on the northern end to Cheyenne Crossing on the southern end. Spearfish Canyon Healthcare was established in 1956 in the Spearfish community. This article originally appeared in the August 2015 issue of our print edition. It’s a dramatic landscape of towering limestone cliffs carved by the waters of Spearfish Creek. Show: All Routes. Climbers are asked to refrain from trekking the peak in June, as it is a ceremonial time for many tribes in the area who regard the monument as sacred ground. Considering it’s one of the finest routes in the canyon, one would think it would get a little more attention. Towering limestone cliffs and a rushing mountain stream keep you company along the 19-mile stretch of US Highway 14A known as Spearfish Canyon Scenic Byway. Would be a tricky onsight. You can spend all day exploring Custer State Park Climbing Known to climbers as the ‘Needles of South Dakota’, this area is a perfect place to enjoy your first day on the rock. And just in case you’re not in the mood for juicy beef, you’re in luck. Find climbing areas and routes in Spearfish Canyon and discover photos, user reviews, and detailed route info like climbing type and grade Long, flowy, sustained, techy, and super-exposed. Spearfish Canyon is one of those gems that is just far enough away from everything that you can relax and climb without the distraction of those twitchy, beta-spraying, self-proclaimed climbing gods that increasingly inhabit just about every other great crag in America. All informations, geo location, photos, videos and betas about Spearfish Canyon are available on ClimbingAway ! Spearfish Canyon boasts some of the most beautiful limestone rocks in the country, which attract climbers from around the world because of the excellent pockets and overhangs that distinguish them. Well protected routes on bomber, blue & tan limestone makes for spectacular climbing. This here is the good stuff!’”, Indecent Exposure (5.11c)Indecent ExposureBlue Sky“This is an incredible climb! And no town would be complete without the token Irish pub. Current climbing forecast for Spearfish Canyon. Local Allison Coin climbing Blood Brother (5.12a) on Indian Wars Wall at the Mohican. Whether you just need to know where to camp nearby or you want to plan a free camping road trip, we've got you covered.You can simply use your smart phone's GPS to find camping near you or even use our trip planner to plan your route from coast to coast.. Our community provides the best free camping information available. © 2021 Pocket Outdoor Media Inc. All Rights Reserved. Blackbird Espresso (605-717-0022) definitely hits the spot. (5.11d)Ice BoxSpearfish Canyon“Sick moves on sweet slabby to overhanging stone that is nearly perfect! You also get the peace of mind that comes with sleeping near where the final scenes of Dances With Wolves were filmed. We began in Spearfish Canyon on the Iron Creek Trail. Crimps, monos, and great holds galore await your hands and feet that are shaking with the anticipation of an excellent send!”, Flight of the Bumblebee (5.12d)Pheromone WallBlue Sky“Amazing climbing on stellar stone. The trailhead is near Spearfish Canyon Lodge and is accessible from the lodge parking lot. Spearfish Canyon in the northern Black Hills is an excellent place to learn to climb ice. The canyon’s climbing excitement lasts year-round. Fun!”, Dragonfly (5.9)Pheromone WallBlue Sky“I climbed this the other day between working my 5.12 projects, and it still sent a chill down my spine. South Dakota's Spearfish Canyon, The VC and other South Dakota Limestone by Mikel Cronin (2011-05-04) [Mikel Cronin] on Amazon.com. South Dakota's Spearfish Canyon, The VC and other South Dakota Limestone by Mikel Cronin (2011-05-04) Cold enough for jackets and pants, and gloves probably wouldn’t have been a bad idea. Both experienced and novice rock climbers can enjoy nearly year-round climbing on vertical routes like Oliver Twist, The Wall of Oz and Sunshine Wall. The Spearfish City Park Campground (605-642-1340) is 25 minutes from a few crags and $20 for a single-tent site, but it offers bargain prices for group sites. A few years into the canyon’s development, a homeowner notified the Forest Service, which knew nothing of the climbing. The canyon is a beautiful drive and is full of many great short hikes to waterfalls like Roughlock and Spearfish falls. Henry Anderson has been climbing for about a year. 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Alternative is the Rod and Gun Campground located about 17 miles up the steep hill follow! Of October for juicy beef, you ’ re concerned eta: my double-car garage with 24,000 BTU and.